The star mantle of Heinrich II

The star mantle of Heinrich II (DMB Inv.No. 3.3.0001) is probably the most famous of the Bamberg imperial robes today, although in pre-modern times it was not counted among Heinrich’s relics and was not displayed during the ostensions of holy relics.

The star mantle has only been regarded as a vestment of Heinrich II (973-1024, ruled 1014-1024) since the 18th century and was exploited to legitimise the young German Empire after 1870, which wanted to place itself in the tradition of the medieval emperors.

The late connection to Heinrich II is astonishing, because two inscriptions undoubtedly refer to the emperor: the hem inscription praises him as the ornament of Europe. Another inscription describes the mantle as an imperial gift to God.

Before the 18th century, the mantle was always referred to as the mantle of Ismael, as another inscription names "Ismaheli" as the donator. Ismael of Bari (died 1020) led the revolt against the Byzantines in southern Italy. After a defeat in 1018 at Cannae, he turned to Heinrich II for help. The two met in Bamberg at Easter in 1020, and the star mantle probably served as a diplomatic gift.

All three inscriptions are made of the same material, but the inscription of the donator in particular has undergone many changes. The two other inscriptions with reference to the emperor also have different author and addressee perspectives though. Therefore, profound changes or large losses in the mantle’s program are to be assumed.

Presumably, the late medieval transfer of the gold embroidery to a new supporting garment in 1452-1454 had a massive impact on its outer appearance, for example, by reinterpreting constellations as Christian representations with the help of newly composed inscriptions.

Traces of earlier repairs were removed during the 1950-1951 restoration. Therefore, the contradictions can no longer be clarified. But an explanatory video shows that many insights can still be gained.

Tanja Kohwagner-Nikolai