Between the cult of relics and repair: the late Middle Ages

It was not until the 12th and 13th centuries that the imperial donation of robes to Bamberg Cathedral was recorded in writing. The fact that only one of the emperor’s tunics is mentioned in 1127 in the oldest Bamberg Cathedral treasury directory may be due to the fact that it was the only robe that could not be used in liturgy.

In the context of the canonisation of Heinrich II (973-1024, ruled 1014-1024) in 1146 and Kunigunde (died 1033) in 1200, there are more and more written references. At the same time, the number of textiles placed in the context of the holy founding couple steadily increased to over ten robes by the 16th century. It is important to bear in mind that neither the star mantle nor the Rationale were understood as relics at this time. The other robes were considered treasured gifts from the imperial couple and were highly venerated.

Since the late 14th century, they have been displayed during Bamberg’s ostensions of holy relics. These were large-scale medieval events with huge crowds of visitors, which represented a considerable business opportunity. But even beyond that, one could be shown the robes and touch them in the hope of healing, in return for an appropriate donation. The Tunic in particular therefore became an important source of income.

But the robes had to look appealing for that. Which is why all the gold embroidery was gradually cut out of its original garments and transferred to new fabrics at great financial expense in the 15th century. In addition, numerous repairs were necessary before and after.

It can be observed that almost three times as many men are mentioned as embroiderers and tailors than women. It was not until the 17th century that such work was explicitly given to nuns.

So ultimately their relic status is the reason for their preservation.

Tanja Kohwagner-Nikolai